Tatters are the rags and uneven pieces of torn cloth traditionally worn by beggars. Historically we assume that Morris dancers from the Mines and factories would perform in the streets wearing coats made with rags and tatters, with faces blacked, begging for money. The dirt and the grime of their work led to the adoption of Tatter Coats by Border Morris sides originating in from these areas. Roosters prefer the distinctive colours of the side, Red, Gold and Green as tatters when border dancing.
You will need a large black cotton shirt. With the weight of the tatters to hold it down, you generally need one at least two sizes too big.
Cotton is best as it can take the weight and the wear and tear.
Better still get someone to make one for you.
Cut off the ‘tail ‘of the shirt to make it level all the way round, and neaten the edge.
Cut off the cuffs - you will need to allow for the length of the tatters extending beyond the sleeve edge. Neaten the edges.
It is easier to stitch tatters onto the sleeve if you unpick the underarm seam so that it lays flat.
The tatters are fixed to the coat under a line of black cotton tape, stitched top and bottom, in lines that overlap by about 15mm (3/4 inch). The number of rows you need depends on how tall you are.
There are two ways to add the tatters
A. stitch them onto the tape like bunting - red yellow green etc then stitch the tape in rows and add a second row of stitching to the tape to hold it securely
B. stitch the tape in place in rows in the right position, then add the tatters tucked underneath the tape as you do the second row of stitching
Start from the bottom so that the previous row is not in the way, and make sure that the rows line up at the front fastening, and across the sleeves. The tape will be a little uneven over the shoulders as you are stitching a flat tape to a shaped shoulder.
You may find it useful to add an inside pocket near the hem.
Mark your tattercoat in some way to distinguish it from everyone else’s.
The tatters curl up and lose their colour. Some people have tried Dry Cleaning.
To Rooster Moira Dyson for all the advice and instructions